Visiting Shillong And Guwahati In May: A Trip I Won’t Regret
I desperately needed a vacation. My mind, thoughts, and actions were all over the place. Too much work, too much stress. I didn’t even remember my last vacation (only to realize it had been nine years!)
Suddenly, in mid-April, two friends of mine – Yogesh and Barna – called me up at two o’clock in the morning and asked me a simple question with a straightforward answer – Bhai, Shillong jayega? (Brother, do you wish to go to Shillong?)
Trust me – I did not expect to hear this question from them. Even though these two have been my closest friends since we were ten, I have never been on a trip with them.
As you might expect, I immediately said yes – and I am glad I did say it. Moreover, as someone who hates summers because I sweat a lot, saying yes to a trip to the clouds of Meghalaya was always on my bucket list.
However, while the trip was excellent, and I had a lot of fun, I believe the sudden onset of an early monsoon ruined some of it. The monsoon isn’t the best time to visit Shillong, trust me.
Therefore, let me tell you what we experienced on our trip to Shillong (and Guwahati).
Before The Trip: Planning Our Itinerary
Being educated modern gents, we decided to look for itinerary inspirations from social media. Search for #shillong or #meghalaya on Instagram, and you will get the answers you need. In addition, we did our research on YouTube.
While Yogesh was very chill about it, Barna was hyper-excited. He was the one who took most of the responsibility for creating the itinerary. After all, Yogesh has previously been here several times (only for business purposes; he had no clue where to visit). For me and Barna, it will be our first encounter.
However, before we decided on our itinerary, we set our plans beforehand. For example, traveling to Shillong by flight, visiting Cherrapunji and Guwahati after Shillong, and lots more.
Barna, a spiritually inclined person, insisted on visiting Guwahati. He had heard tales about the spiritual prowess of Guwahati’s Kamakhya Temple and wanted to experience its power firsthand.
After careful planning and uncountable revisions, this is what our final Shillong itinerary looked like:
Day 1: Flight to Shillong, briefly visiting Umiam Lake and staying in our hotel.
Day 2: Visit nearby pubs and cafes to enjoy the Meghalaya cuisine.
Day 3: Visit famous spots around Shillong, like the Maswmai caves, Elephant Falls, and more.
Day 4: Visit the Umngot River, the Living Root Bridge, and the Dawki Bridge in Dawki.
Day 5: Drive to Guwahati and visit a nightclub.
Day 6: Visit the mighty Kamakhya Temple.
Day 7: Train back home from Guwahati.
I was satisfied with this itinerary. However, we decided to skip Cherrapunji from this list as it would have made the trip a bit too long (I am a corporate slave, after all).
Day 1: Flying Half the Way to Shillong (07/05/2024)
Our flight from Kolkata to Shillong at 5:25 in the morning was connected (they were cheap). Therefore, instead of taking a direct flight to Shillong, we had to stop at Guwahati for two hours.
While we were all happy with this plan, you might say we were in for a shock – a bad start.
After hopping onboard the flight, we reached Guwahati in under an hour. However, after reaching Guwahati, we got news that our final flight to Shillong – initially after an hour – had been delayed by eight hours due to turbulent weather!
Therefore, instead of reaching Shillong by 10 am, we would reach our hotel by 6 pm! That’s a lot of time wasted by just hanging around the small lobby of the Guwahati airport!
Therefore, thanks to Yogesh’s brilliant (but simple) idea, we decided to ditch our flight to Shillong and instead booked a cab there. Sure, it was expensive, but we believed that time is money!
Umiam Lake From a Distance
After stepping foot in Shillong, I was surprised by how different everything felt from Kolkata. I loved every aspect of Shillong, including the narrow winding streets, unpolluted air, clean streets and streams, and lush green forests.
Umiam Lake was one of the first sights we encountered in Shillong – albeit at a distance. This great lake is on the road between Guwahati and Shillong. While we did want to visit it correctly, the timing was just off (thanks to the flight cancelation).
However, our driver did help us reach a small spot where you could get a good look at the lake. Therefore, it was the best time to utilize our smartphone cameras and make our trip Instagram-worthy.
The lake was huge. No wonder it’s known as the Bara Pani Lake (a lake with lots of water) amongst the Khasi locals! I wouldn’t be surprised if you mistake it for being a part of a river!
After some not-so-aesthetic photoshoots, we resumed our very-much-aesthetic long drive through hilly forests.
Quarters For the Privileged
After a three-hour drive to Shillong, we finally reached our hotel – The NERPC (Northeastern Regional Power Committee) Quarters. This quarter is near Umpling Village.
While this place is typically off-limits to tourists, only people with relatives working here can book this place. Thankfully, Barna’s uncle used to work here back in the day, and a well-timed phone call to him was our ticket in.
The rooms weren’t luxurious like I expected, but they weren’t bad either. They were cheap, neat, clean, and, most importantly – near Shillong’s center.
After settling in, we decided first to satiate our growling tummies. We all had great Alu Parathas and Chole Baturas, to our delight.
However, it tasted different from the “Bangali” style I taste daily in Kolkata. The masalas and the smell were different, and the sizes were huge! However, it was more expensive than I thought it would be.
After lunch, we slept till late evening (none of us had slept the night before) and spent the night with a few cold ones with the boys.
Day 2: Police Bazaar and the Best Pork Pizza (08/05/2024)
After waking up the next day and having our favorite cup noodles – Masala Maggi – for breakfast, we went out to experience the streets and markets of Shillong. We wanted to delve into experiencing what it feels like living in Shillong as a native. Therefore, we skipped any wondrous sightseeing on this day.
Therefore, since we chose a hotel strategically closer to Shillong’s biggest market – Police Bazaar – we headed there immediately after breakfast.
Exploring Police Bazaar
While we visited the Police Bazaar as tourists, Yogesh was the only odd one out. He came to Shillong not only as a tourist but as a businessman. Police Bazaar has a lot of clothing shops – some of which are his clients. Therefore, he disappeared for two hours, leaving me and Barna alone to shop around.
Police Bazaar was straightforward, with a central circular area in the middle. From the center, two roads emerged in opposite directions. One was filled with clothing and various shops, while the other housed multiple restaurants and pubs.
The first lane was filled to the brim with lots of clothing shops. However, it was vastly different from a typical Kolkata marketplace.
Firstly, all the shops were actual brick-and-mortar shops. Unlike the markets of Kolkata, I didn’t see any roadside shops. Moreover, even the food and snack shops were actual shops (with good hygiene, too!)
I looked at Megha Emporium, a local Khasi handloom and handicrafts shop at Police Bazaar’s entrance. Here, I bought Khasi handbags for my aunt. However, shopping here taught me one thing – you better forget about bargaining since the prices are all fixed!
We soon entered a clothing store. I lacked a good shirt for the Guwahati nightclub, so I got a good deal here.
Moreover, I also bought a cool chained wristband and a black t-shirt with the logo of one of my favorite heavy metal bands – Gorgoroth!
The Jadoo of Jadoh
Upon the suggestion of a colleague of mine, Barna and I visited Trattoria to try some authentic Khasi cuisine.
As per her instructions, we ordered the Jadoh platter. This platter was filled with rice, roasted pork, Dohkhlein (sweet pork chutney), Tungrymbai (spicy dry fish), and smashed pork meatballs.
It was delicious, with the right amount of spice and excessive meat – just how we like it!
Trattoria was excellent, too. It had a lovely ambiance and was not as crowded as we thought it would be. The servers were very courteous to us and served us well!
Along with the Jadoh platter, we also had Fried Silkworms. While we were initially skeptical since we had never tried insects before – it was surprisingly tasty! The silkworm meat was soft and tasted like green beans. Dip it in chutney, and you won’t regret it!
The Best Pork Pizza I Have Ever Had
After we finished shopping and snacking, we rendezvoused with Yogesh. Next, we headed to the distance and soon arrived at ML-05 Cafe. However, I was astounded by what I was about to experience here.
As motorbike lovers, ML-05 Cafe was themed around motorcycles, with a vintage Royal Enfield in the middle. Moreover, the cafe was entirely made of wood, which gave it a more rustic and cozier vibe.
Since Shillong is a cold place, our bellies screamed for pork – something that’s not viable in the unbearably humid weather of Kolkata.
Therefore, Barna and I ordered hot chocolate and a Pork Pizza with extra toppings and cheese while Yogesh stuck to his usual Veg Pizza.
As I took a slice of the pizza dripping with cheese from all sides on my hands, I could tell it would be a good one just by its cheesy and porky aroma alone. Then, I took my first bite.
The cheese, the pork, the veggies, and the crust – they all melted in my mouth. Coupled with some blues playing in the background, I had a brief out-of-body experience.
It felt like floating in a world of cheese and pork, happily munching away at the slice. This pizza, undoubtedly, is one of the best pizzas to grace my taste buds.
Poor Yogesh, he had no idea what he missed out on!
We spent a few hours here sipping hot chocolate as it rained outside. We called it a day and returned to our hotel. After freshening up, we had bottles of Jin-Ro Soju (a famous Korean alcohol) as we played chess before dozing off.
Day 3: An Elephantine Trek to Remember (09/05/2024)
The third day of my trip to Shillong was when it all started to fall apart.
We had a lot planned for this trip. Going to the underground Mawsmai Caves, visiting Shillong Peak (the highest point in Shillong at 6,450 feet above sea level), Ward’s Lake, Laitlum Canyon, Elephant Falls, and more.
Moreover, the night before, I got calls from Dad and elder brother back from home. They said that it had started to rain heavily ever since we left.
However, we also did not expect the rain to make it to Shillong! From the moment we woke up, it was already drizzling, which caused our driver to appear an hour late. Moreover, when he finally came and got inside our car – it started to rain more heavily.
Finally, the nail in our coffin was our driver’s disheartening words: “Sir, aaj adha jaga nahi ja payenge barish ke waje se!” (Sir, we won’t be able to visit half of these places due to rain!)
Damn it. We were so stoked for this day – the day we finally got to trek in many iconic places of Shillong! Moreover, the weather forecast predicted that it would rain the entire day!
After careful planning, we decided to cancel most of these famous spots and only go to the nearby ones. Therefore, we headed to our first trek in Shillong – the scenic Mawryngkhang Bamboo Trail.
A Great Trek Unfortunately Cut Short
The Mawryngkhang Bamboo Trail is almost 50 kms (31 miles) from our hotel near Police Bazaar. While we could’ve reached this place faster, we reached it by car in around two hours.
Before going down the trail, we had to pay an entrance fee of ₹100. After having some good old Maggi at one of the food stalls here, we started our descent…… to disappointment.
The entire trail was around 4 kms (2.5 miles) – which might not seem like a big deal, right? Trust me, we thought the same too.
However, we realized we had too much on our knees when we reached halfway down. We forgot that this trail goes down – and we must go down a thousand steep, vertical steps.
Moreover, it became more challenging since it started to drizzle when we started our descent. The steps were steep – along with being slippery. I lost count of the times I almost slipped and plunged into the watery depths below!
Furthermore, it started to rain heavily once we went halfway down the trail. However, we saw an empty shack there for weary travelers – perfect to shelter us from the storm.
Since we were stranded, we decided to do what every youngster would do – pop open a cold one with the boys.
However, the natural vistas down the trail were breathtaking. It seemed like these steep steps were in the middle of a valley. Hills and clouds on both sides surrounded me. Thanks to the vibe, this made the beer tastier than it is!
Umrew River – Fresher Than Purified Water
After finishing a can, we pushed on since the rain stopped for a while. After a few minutes, we finally reached the Umrew River (also known as the Wahrew River).
By the time we reached this river, Barna was already half-dead and wanted to return. However, we just reached the central part of this trek – the Bamboo bridges – which starts now!
While I’m not a regular river explorer, I wanted to taste the waters of Umrew. Unlike the Ganga, the holiest river in India, which seems to be from unholy lands, Umrew is crystal clear.
Moreover, it tastes natural and fresh – even more so than the water we drink from purifiers in our homes!
However – it started to rain heavily again. Soon, one of the guides here told us it was best to skip the bamboo trek. After all, none of us want to slip on the bamboo bridges and meet an early demise.
Therefore, after clicking a few photos, we followed the same steps. We started our ascent of disappointment. I was unhappy with this predicament and pushed my legs to the limit to rush back up.
While Yogesh and I reached back up simultaneously, Barna reached the spot after we had already finished a plate of Maggi!
The Not-So-Interesting Elephant Falls
The Mawryngkhang Bamboo Trail took us longer than we thought it would. It was almost 4 pm. Moreover, our driver told us we could visit one more place before returning to our hotels.
After careful planning, considering our already tired (and Barna’s almost dead) bodies, we decided to visit Elephant Falls since it was already on the route to our hotel.
An hour later, we finally reached Elephant Falls. After paying the entrance fee, we soon entered the parking area.
Apart from parking, this space has several stalls selling Khasi handlooms and handicrafts. However, we hadn’t seen anything new here at the Megha Emporium in Police Bazaar.
Soon, we descended the stairs and caught the first glimpse of Elephant Falls. This gigantic waterfall is divided into three steps or floors. However, platforms are created around these three steps, perfect for clicking pictures and sitting on their benches.
However, I was somewhat disappointed when we reached the final platform on the ground. It’s just a big waterfall divided into three parts. It’s not as majestic or “elephantine” as I thought.
Soon, we headed back to our hotel. Everyone was tired. Everyone was disappointed at the trip and the massive rain that made it that way. Soon, we had dinner (some delicious chicken biryani at the NERPC canteen) and went to sleep.
Day 4: Too Much Rain, Too Less Dawki (10/05/2024)
Day three of our Shillong trip was kind of disappointing.
Sure, we did enjoy the trek to the Wahrew River. However, being unable to start the famous bamboo trek due to rain was a big blow to our trip.
Moreover, there was nothing spectacular about Elephant Falls (probably because we reached these falls around dusk – the worst time to get a good view).
We were so excited to start our fourth day with a bang. We had our backpacks ready to make our way to the crystal-clear waters of Dawki, participate in water sports, visit the famous Double Decker Living Root bridge, and more!
Entering… And Exiting Dawki
We started our trip to Dawki at 7 in the morning. After a three-hour and 90km long drive through the winding roads of the hills of Meghalaya, we finally reached one of the most iconic places every tripper to Meghalaya to go to – Dawki.
This town is a scenic beauty from the moment we entered. It’s also at the India-Bangladesh border, beside the iconic Jaintia Hills.
First up was the Umngot River. This river was serene and authentic to its name – it is the cleanest river I’ve ever seen. Unlike the Ganga River, you can even see the riverbed!
Moreover, you can take boat rides on the river. We didn’t go for it, as my two friends were disinterested. However, we enjoyed some spicy fruits near the river, where we got berries sprinkled with chili powder, pepper, and salt.
Soon, we were headed for our next stop – the Dawki Bridge over the Umngot River, followed by the Living Root Bridge.
However, things soon took a turn south. It started raining. It started raining very heavily.
That’s when our driver told us the forecast says a thunderstorm is approaching. Apparently, it’s the same thunderstorm that my father warned me about in the morning that has been flooding Kolkata for the past few days – Remal.
Too bad we had to stop exploring Dawki there and return to Shillong. All the water rides were closed off. Moreover, we were forced to do so since a thunderstorm means many landslides in Meghalaya.
Therefore, if we were not quick to head back – the roads might get blocked due to a landslide.
Feeling incredibly disappointed, we started our three-hour trip back to Shillong. Well, nothing can be done if nature is against us, right?
The Jiva Experience
We were so bummed out that we decided to stay in our room and drink our sorrows away. However, before heading to our hotel, we headed out to the Police Bazaar in the rain at night.
As we went to the alcohol shop, we all decided to try something new: a premium drink. Therefore, all of us unanimously set our eyes on Toki Suntory Whisky.
Sure, it was expensive, but we are all on vacation. So, why not give exquisiteness a try – with premium Japanese whisky?
Soon, we had dinner at Jiva Veg Restaurant, a place Yogesh claims to be one of the best veg restaurants in Shillong. While unsure of that claim, I found Jiva’s veg platter tasty enough to satiate my carnivorous taste buds.
The three of us shared a platter of Butter Naans with Malai Kofta and Paneer Tikka with Makhan. I loved the Kofta and Paneer, which were finger-licking good.
However, the Butter Naan was a bit too hard and overbaked. Fortunately, this was just a minor issue. All of us thoroughly enjoyed the food and the lowkey ambiance.
After the sumptuous lunch, we all headed back home for some rest. Moreover, the rain didn’t seem to stop at all!
The Suntory Experience
Come evening, we decided to open the cork. After two pegs, I must say that Suntory Japanese Whisky is smooth and has a flavorful but nuanced taste. Moreover, it sure does give a good high as well!
Moreover, we also had crushed masala peanuts by Bikaji as snacks to go with it. However, we didn’t expect them to be the perfect snack alongside Japanese Whisky!
After a few pegs, our visions became blurry, our minds slower, and our voices louder. These are all signs that we ingested something good – which Toki sure was! However, it was so smooth that we unanimously wished we had another bottle with us!
When the bottle was over, we were over as well. We needed a warm bed and soft pillows, which we graciously held on to like little babies for the night.
Day 5: Drive To Guwahati, Be A Wannabe Playboy (11/05/2024)
Our trip to Shillong ended with a somewhat uneventful final day as we missed Dawki. After breakfast, we checked out of our hotel at 11 am and got on a cab to our next destination – Guwahati. We reached our hotel here by
Guwahati is a bustling city, unlike the peaceful hills of Shillong. Once the capital of the state of Assam, I found this city to have a vibe like Kolkata. Its architecture, weather (hot and humid), streets, cuisine – everything is very much Bengali – and it feels like home.
Home Sweet Airbnb
But do you know what else feels more like at home? The Airbnb hotel we stayed in!
In my 26 years, this Airbnb was the best hotel I have ever stayed in. It had a huge dining room with two bedrooms, a kitchen, and two bathrooms. Moreover, it had a large balcony outside near the entrance, complete with a table and a few chairs!
In addition to being the best-looking room I have stayed in, it also had a Wi-Fi connection, board games, card games (like everyone’s favorite Uno!), and even a big 42” TV! None of us had any complaints whatsoever!
Me, A Wannabe Playboy
Unlike Shillong, Guwahati has only one primary tourist attraction – the mystical Kamakhya Temple. While that is a place that we will tackle the next day, we wanted to attend a different attraction on our first night at Guwahati – its nightclubs.
Therefore, after Yogesh consulted many of his friends in the city, we finally decided to go to Playboy Beer Garden.
This nightclub is located in Bhangagarh, on the sixth floor of the Exotica Garden building. Moreover, it was a 30-minute Uber ride from our Airbnb (yes, we finally got Uber cabs in Guwahati!)
However, it was not the “playboy” garden I expected once we entered this place!
Firstly, the place was jam-packed to the door. We had to wait in line for some time to enter the place. Next, when we entered, there were no empty chairs or tables. Therefore, we had to stand the entire time we were here.
However, this place was so crowded (it was a Bollywood DJ Night, after all) that we didn’t even get proper places to stand! It took us ten minutes of shoving drunkards off our way to reach the bar counter and order our drinks!
While I am single and my brothers are not, they did edge me to talk to a girl. However, l I’ve always been an introvert since birth, along with having social anxiety. Talking to drop-dead-gorgeous strangers makes me tense and sweaty.
However, I’m also a person who’s good with words, like Knox from Dead Poets Society. I’m no Elvis on the dance floor. And Playboy Beer Garden – seems to be a place for Elvis on the dance floor.
Therefore, I was more than happy to pass this opportunity, enjoy a few overpriced shots of tequila and cheeseballs, and head back.
Day 6: God’s Blessings Are Only for the Rich (12/05/2024)
I was surprised to wake up the next day with no hangover after having an uncountable number of tequila shots. However, it’s perfect that it tuned out this way because today, we are going to one of Guwahati’s most spiritually dense places – the Kamakhya Temple.
As a staunch atheist and a devout detractor of deism, I had no interest in visiting this place. However, I decided to tag along since Barna wanted to see it so much.
Kamakhya Mandir has a rich lore to its creation. During undatable times, Shiva and his first wife, Sati, used to descend to Kamakhya for a carnal union.
However, when Sati died, her corpse was chopped into many pieces by Vishnu to separate the grief-stricken Shiva from carrying around her corpse.
Therefore, her pieces were thrown down to the mortal realm, where temples were soon constructed on top of each part. Each of these places became Peeths – places of worship for Hindus.
Interestingly, Sati’s Yoni – her vagina and her womb – fell on Kamakhya. Therefore, the Kamakhya temple was created to worship Sati’s menstruation – by offering her animal blood as sacrifice during her menstruation days.
But how do the priests know that Sati is menstruating? That’s something you shouldn’t ask.
Worshipping Money
Kamakhya Mandir is visited by thousands of people every day, where devout followers stand in line for over six to seven hours outside the temple!
However, a VIP line does exist that cuts this time down to only two to three hours – if you can pay for it. As employed individuals who believe that time is money, we wanted to exploit this system.
Therefore, we took a local train to Kamakhya from Guwahati station at 9 am and reached there in under 30 minutes.
Soon, we started to look around for the Pandas (Shaivite priests) of Kamakhya to bribe our way inside the temple. Little did we know that we were in for major disappointment.
We approached a younger panda and asked him about the VIP line. He calmly said, “teen din agey theke booking korte hobe amader ke call kore” (you must book your VIP slots three days prior).
After hearing this, Barna tried to talk a bit more to the priest and strike a deal. However, it didn’t work out. The priest asked us an exorbitant amount from us – which we deemed unworthy.
We then glanced at the massive line in front of the temple. At least 500 hundred people were in the line, with more joining them. If we joined this line, we might get inside the temple after seven hours – if we were lucky!
We took one good look at the mandir and returned to our Airbnb. I guess even God favors the rich and the powerful. Or is this just a lesson on proper planning and time management?
The Man in the Kitchen
After returning to our rooms (and picking up a carton of beers on the way to our rooms with sad faces, Yogesh decided to be our cook for the day. While we initially agreed to the decision with a pinch of salt, little did we know about the surprise.
Yogesh decided to cook simple spicy fried rice made with turmeric, chili powder, and butter. Along with beer to wash it all down, we needed it to spice up our day.
It was spicy and tasted pretty good. After lunch, we ended our final day playing Uno and chess and finished the entire crate of beer we got. For dinner, Barna cooked some excellent Egg Masala Maggi.
Ultimately, we all packed our bags and went off to sleep.
Day 7: Almost Missed Our Ride Back (13/05/2024)
Our train back to Kolkata from Guwahati was at 12:30 pm. However, we woke up at 11 am.
After unlocking the Flash’s speed force inside us, we managed to nab a cab and reach the station at 12:29. The three of us were the last passengers to board the train, with me being the very last.
The train – Saraighat – was a pretty decent one. The seats were comfortable since we traveled on an AC 1st class coach.
However, the staff were pretty rude. They served us lunch and dinner – without spoons. We had to wait an hour to get spoons – that too with an annoying face from their end.
Moreover, the train was supposed to reach Howrah station by 9 am the next day. However, it was late by 2.5 hours – which made me late for work.
My Post-Trip Clarity
After returning from the office, the three of us met for a cold one. We reminisced about our experiences in the “Scotland of India.”
Our trip to Shillong was great – and disappointing at the same time. The three of us had a lot of fun. We tried out various dishes and saw many gorgeous sights. Moreover, the calm of the hills and fresh air put a spell on me!
However, the monsoon season isn’t the best time to visit Shillong. Maybe Cherrapunji would’ve been a better option.
No matter how the trip turned out to be, it was a memorable one for me. This was my first proper trip with my friends, and it was pretty good. I will revisit Shillong and maybe plan a bit better next time!
Moreover, I was surprised to feel more energetic and productive at work. Maybe the trip was all I needed to clear out my brain fog, and I’m all the happier.
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